Whitman Mission and Plymouth, Washington

Heading west, toward the great Columbia River, we stopped at the historic Whitman Mission, which also figures into the Nez Perce history we've been following.

The Whitmans were among the very first white settlers in the Oregon Territory, settling between Mill Creek and the Walla Walla river, in Washington. Their mission was established in 1836-7, and soon was seen by the local Cayuse, Nez Perce and other tribes as a positive and helpful resource.

Historic painting of the mission

The local Native Americans were so impressed by the tools, conveniences, and skills the pioneers possessed they wanted these same things for themselves. Thinking the "power" they were witnessing came as a result of the settlers' religious beliefs, they asked to learn about Christianity. This new power would be something they could add to what they already knew and believed spiritually.

Things went well for a time, but the missionaries could not understand or adapt their teachings to the seasonal life-style the Cayuse had followed for generations - hunting here, gathering there, then moving somewhere else to fish. It was the only way people could survive in this climate, but the missionaries wanted them in church on Sunday. They wanted the people to quickly adopt white habits, clothing, and mannerisms.

The missionaries began insisting they change their ways and become farmers. When the people realized this new "religion" was going to require not only changing how they lived, but giving up their prior beliefs they became somewhat disenchanted - to say the least - and they began drifting away from the mission.

In 1847 a measles epidemic hit the area. Though many white settlers, especially children, were effected, Whitman (a doctor) was able to save most of them. Lacking the natural resistance the people of European ancestry had, almost all of the Cayuse who were infected died. The tribe blamed the missionaries for the disease, and soon rose up and killed the Whitmans and several other settlers at the mission.

Now all that remains of the mission are a few artifacts and stone outlines of the original building foundations. The walking trail through the original mission site has signboards to assist the visitor in visualizing how the mission was built, where the gardens were, etc. So much history here! And, what a lesson in how two cultures can think they understand each other, but are actually working at cross-purposes, and each looking for different outcomes.

Home for the next few days (July 31-Aug 4) is Plymouth Park, in the tiny town of Plymouth, Oregon. The town was named for a huge boulder that reminded the original residents of the original "Plymouth Rock", so they say anyway. It's not visible now - 'probably was covered with water when they created the dam.

This is the most park-like campground we've ever stayed in! Plymouth Park is a Corp of Engineers park on the Columbia River, and there's apparently no shortage of water for irrigation. Truly an emerald oasis, the park is surrounded by giant sagebrush and tawny grasses, all leading down to the steep banks of the Columbia.

The 32 campsites are all distributed along one road, spaced fairly generously, and each has a deep "lawn", leading to the river edge, as well as a large graveled area. Though there are no shrubs between sites, and therefore less privacy than some, we still don't feel crowded. There are a lot of mature trees scattered through out the park, so it's cool and shady most of the day. Many sites are full service, others have only water and electric. Most sites can be reserved, but two are held for first-come-first-served occupancy.

There's also a boat ramp just a short distance away from the campground. Shiner enjoyed swimming there during the week, when there weren't any boaters putting in and out. She also made a lot of new friends here. One of the hosts practically adopted her, and we met a couple who live locally who made here very welcome in their camp (he's a fellow Texan!) In spite of being right on the water the "bugs" weren't a problem at all. It helps that the sites are set back from the edge of the river. The best part, with a senior pass the price is only $11 a night!

We took an afternoon to go into Umatilla for groceries and were met by a giant John Wayne greeting us at the entrance to the parking lot. I'm not sure what his connection to the area is, but he is eye-catching! Hermiston, famous for it's melons and other produce, is nearby, and the market stocks a lot of local produce so we stocked up. Yummm, best melons and peaches we've had in a long time!

Just across the river from the campground is McNary Dam, in Umatilla, Oregon. The dam visitor center was another afternoon's entertainment. The center has some very nicely done educational displays, and there are a lot of opportunities to see the various stages of managing the salmon runs.

The fish ladder, the sorting tanks, are all included in a self-guided tour, and we finally got an explanation for the occasional "fireworks" sounding booms we'd been hearing from the campground. It's a method used to keep birds away from the young fish!

Another shopping day, which of course included a couple of quilt shops,and after the fabric shopping we stopped for lunch at Nookies Bistro & Spirits which is now the home of the Hermiston Brewing Company. 
It's a comfortable place to relax, plenty of tables and bar seats, and enough neon signs and artfully arranged collectables to provide the visual entertainment. The restaurant has been there for eight years, but the brewing component just started up in early July. 13 beers on tap - hard to beat, and they make a darn good burger too!