Evading the heat

Thursday, June 18
The route we originally planned has been hit by a real heat wave, so we're heading north toward cooler climes.

Our first stop of the day is a sight-seeing tour of El Moro National Monument.

The park is named for the imposing sandstone structure, behind Steve in this photo, that rises above the floor of the desert (a "cuesta", geologically speaking).

The area is historically important as travelers on the ancient trade route that passed by here relied on the pool of water at thFe base of El Morro - a pool of runoff and snow-melt that has never been known to completely dry up.

Another reason this area is of such historic interest is the markings those visitors have left behind. There are so many signatures on the sides of El Morrow that it has come to be known as Inscription Rock.

Ancestors of the Zuni Indians called it Atsinna - "place of writing on the rock." The early Native Americans recorded their passage in pictographs, the Spaniards who explored here in the late 1500's recorded their names, the dates, and the accomplishments of their expeditions. Then, as European immigrants moved west to California, the Mexican-American War (1846-48) and western railroad expansion brought more people to the area, they too left names and dates on the sandstone walls.

The volunteer at the visitors center gave us a loan copy of the guide book and suggested we hit the trail immediately as it was getting warmer by the minute so we took her advice. The trail is paved, .5 miles, and dogs are welcome (on leash), a good thing as we couldn't have left Shiner in the car for that long. The trail is an easy walk, with a few bits of steep grade. The trail is well worth the effort.

We really enjoyed seeing the little pool of water - the primary reason this particular place was so important! There are several

Cat tails and reeds in the desert?

cliff swallow nests along the looming wall above the pool. We were watching the swallows sail above us when the most hellacious noise I have ever heard came echoing out of the huge vertical crack in the sandstone, just behind the pool. After listening to the racket for a few minutes we decided it was crows, defending their nest (or disciplining their children!). Whatever it was, it sounded quite frightening!!

As we walked on we began to see the variety of inscriptions. Some of the engravings are truly amazing, for the age and the messages as well as for the quality and style of engraving.

 

Copper plate style engraving

Copperplate and flowery script mingle with rough block letters and ancient running goats.

Some inscriptions are accompanied by the initials  UP, indicating they were connected to a survey the Union Pacific Railway conducted through the area. Others, reading "Beale" and "Breckinridge"  are connected to the Army's 1850's experiment using camels as pack animals in the desert areas.

The dry climate has helped to preserve the quality of the carvings, and some look as crisp and sharp as if they were done just yesterday. The El Morro photo album is here.

The rest of the day was driving, our stop for the night, Homolovi State Park. Our site had a bit of shade, and the temperatures were tolerable by the time we arrived (100 degrees at 3 P.M.- by 6 it had cooled of to 95.) Thank heavens for electrical hook-ups!

Friday, June 19

We wended our way through the very picturesque Navajo country - colorful formations all around, and the Vermillion Cliffs, amazing scenery (follow the link as they have photos on days with no smoke!. . .  what we could see of it. A fire up in the forest near Grand Canyon has sent smoke wafting all the way to Homolovi where we camped last night - near Winslow.

We'd been wondering what was making the sky so hazy, and it got worse as we traveled closer to the canyon. Steve checked news reports and now we know the cause. It's not threatening people or structures, so they are letting it burn. Probably a wise decision as fires are a part of nature. It certainly does make for difficult photography though! The haze was so dense we could hardly see the cliffs in front of us!

A 30 minute delay for construction just north of Cameron put a dent in our progress, but we didn't have that far to go. For each mile we climbed toward our destination, Jacob Lake /campground (Kaibab National Foreset), the temperature dropped. It was 99 degrees at the Vermillion Cliffs and 82 up at the campground. Overnight it dropped to the mid 50's. Ah, we're enjoying the cool while we can, as we have a lot of desert to get through before we get to our first real destination, Gardnerville, Nevada

Saturday, June 20
Duck Creek Campground, Utah
We left Jacob Lake fairly early, giving ourselves time to stop briefly in Kanab, just over the line into Utah.

We picked up a couple of things at Honey's grocery store, where we met Rusty. I'm quite sure Rusty is the cousin of Mater (of Cars movie fame).

Kanab is a beautiful little town, and this is the second time we've been here. We vowed this time to come back and spend a few days. The town has so many interesting little shops, historic areas, and the striking contrast between all the green trees and the bright red rim rock and formations that surround the town is a treat for the eyes.

Through Kanab, up hwy. 89 and then west on 14 we finally arrived at Duck Creek Campground.

We were worried that on a Saturday it would be hard to find a site, but there were several available.

We slid into #12, perfectly flat and level, and what would appear to be a whole meadow all to ourselves. We even managed an internet connection (ATT this time).
The campground map shows the trails that lead our of the group site parking area (at the top of the map). The trails are nice, not difficult, and add to the dog-friendly atmosphere.

As we watched the aspen leaves shimmer in the 80 degree breeze we contemplated on the fact that, if we had followed our original plan we'd be in Boulder City (NV), at 111 degrees right now. I'd say we made a good decision in swinging north!